ATK Potato sandwich buns


This link from Cooks Illustrated/America's Test Kitchen provides a helpful overview by video (subscription may be required).

NOTES:

1. The potatoes need to be cooked just before forming the dough in order to provide the right amount of potato water for it. Don't use leftover potatoes--you won't have the potato water to use.

2. The original recipe makes 9 burger-sized buns. Consider cutting the dough into 12 pieces for smaller buns (i.e. 3 x 4 cuts instead of 3 x 3, about 2 oz each).

3. One potato just under a pound should provide enough for the dough. No salt is used in the potato water.

4. Original recipe calls for standing mixer. Dough will be incredibly sticky so the mixer helps.

5. The recipe isn't as complicated as it appears. There are several resting periods that help with the pace of prep.

6. Optional:  If you are able to add 1/2 cup of steaming water into the area where the disks of dough are resting, the moisture will help develop a moister bun. But even before we started doing that, we loved these buns, so don't sweat it!

7. Potato buns hold up better to hearty sandwiches like BBQ, burgers, etc. Be sure to slice them so the bottom half is a bit thicker than the domed top.


INGREDIENTS:

1 lb (or just under) russet potatoes
2 Tbl unsalted butter
2-1/4 cups (12.3 oz) bread flour
1 Tbl sugar
2 tsp rapid rise/instant yeast
1 tsp salt
2 eggs (1 for egg wash)
1 Tbl kosher salt or sesame seeds


PREPARATION:

1. Cut butter into 3-4 pieces and place in medium-small bowl; set aside.

2. Peel potato and cut into 3/4" to 1" pieces or into 1/4" slices (which often cook faster), placing them into a medium saucepan, and just barely covering with water.

3. Bring to boil over high heat; reduce to medium-low; and simmer uncovered until soft, about 8-12 minutes.

4. Just before potatoes are soft, reserve 5 Tbl of the potato water and set aside.

5. When soft, drain potatoes and return them to pot on stove on low flame, shaking occasionally to help surface moisture evaporate, drying them out, about 1 minute.

6. Remove potatoes from heat and mash in the pot thoroughly.

7. Measure one cup of firmly packed potatoes and stir into bowl with butter to combine. (Set aside remaining potatoes for another use, like loaded mashed potatoes.)

8. In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine flour, sugar, yeast, and salt.

9. Add warm potato mixture to flour mixture; mix with stiff spatula and hands until combined. Some larger lumps are okay.

10. Add the reserved potato water and one egg.

11. Using dough hook, mix on low until dough is soft and slightly sticky, 8-10 mins.

12. Lightly grease a container or large bowl for the dough; shape dough into a rough ball and place it in the container, tightly wrapped. Leave to rest/rise at room temp (or out of drafty area) about 30-40 minutes so it is about doubled in size.

13. Before turning dough out onto counter, check the dough's stickiness. If too sticky to handle comfortably, very lightly dust the ball or counter and/or hands with flour before patting the ball into an 8-inch square of even thickness. Avoid flour if possible, or use as little as needed, because it will affect the ability to shape the dough into boules: you need friction on the counter to do so.

14. Using a bench knife or other large sharp implement, cut dough into either 9 pieces (3 x 3 for larger buns) or 12 pieces (3 x 4 for smaller buns). Do your best to have the pieces roughly the same weight so they will bake evenly.

15. Separate the pieces and cover loosely with plastic to prevent them from drying out.

16. Pull out one piece at a time and set it on an unfloured work surface to form a small boule. Friction between the dough and unfloured board or counter allow you to form a small, even ball.
  • To form the boule: loosely cup your hand around the dough as it sits on the counter. While applying light pressure from above, move hand in small circular motion, keeping hand cupped. 
  • Slowly increase pressure while forming the boule, checking the underside about every 20-30 seconds to see if there is  small swirl or "belly button" forming rather than a line or split. 
  • It takes practice to form a boule this way so be patient. The downside of having a split in the bottom of a boule is that it may be a weak spot in the baked bun. Not the end of the world!
17. Cover the boules with plastic or a light towel and let it rest for 15 minutes. This will be adequate even in a cool house.

18. While the boules are resting, put parchment paper on two rimmed baking sheets and lightly flour the working surface. (If making 9 boules, two small baking sheets should be adequate but it will be tight.)

19. Firmly press each boule into a flattened 3 or 3-1/2 inch disk, being sure to expel large pockets of air.

20. Arrange disks on prepared baking sheets about 1" or 2" apart and cover loosely with plastic or a light towel about 30-40 mins at room temp until almost doubled in size. 

21. After 15-20 minutes, preheat oven to 425, oven rack in the middle and upper middle positions.

22. Lightly beat remaining egg and gently brush egg wash onto buns, then sprinkle kosher salt or sesame seeds. Be careful pop any bubbles that have appeared.

23. Bake until deep golden brown, 15-18 mins, rotating and switching sheets halfway through.

24. Transfer baking sheets to wire racks and cool for 5 mins before moving rolls directly to cooling racks. Serve warm, at room temperature, or toasted. Freeze any unused buns.



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